Visiting Brazil is a rush. From the endless attractions of Rio de Janeiro, to the gushing jungle falls in Iguazu, and over 8,514,877 square kilometers to explore (Brazil is the world’s fifth largest country), it’s important to schedule some downtime during a Brazil vacation. And if you need to relax, Paraty is perfect.

Paraty is a seaside colonial hideaway halfway between the Brazilian giants of Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo. A tiny and charming cobblestoned historic center serves world-class fare among whitewashed colonial buildings, while just steps away crayon-colored boats float in the harbor. Beyond them an inviting scattering of tropical islands dot the ocean like emeralds on a shimmering sapphire sheet.

Over 300 regional beaches and 65 islands surround this UNESCO World Heritage Site, but the town itself is free from distractions. Lounging and leisurely strolling are the main in-town activities. I spent my time in Paraty perusing tempting boutiques like Sobral, a hand-made Brazilian jewelry line featuring bright colors that blend Bohemian and chic designs. I also peeked in Cachaçaria Cana Caiana, which resembles an old western county store with wooden walls containing thousands of bottles of local liquors.

Close to the bridge spanning the river and connecting colonial Paraty to the section surrounding Pontal Beach, the intimate Restaurante Porto has tickled the taste buds and won praise from both New York Times and Conde Nast travel writers (it once made the list of the world’s 100 best restaurants). Another tasty option is Sorveteria Italiana Miracolo, where I personally promise the pasta will not disappoint. Many of the restaurants open in the late afternoon, though if you wait for dusk you’ll enjoy a meal by candlelight or soft lighting, which creates cozy shadows that flicker between the modern-day and the colonial past.

When you’ve visited all the colonial churches and historic buildings you can handle and you’re properly rested, take a trip to one of the numerous natural attractions surrounding Paraty. An island-hopping boat tour of the bay and its islands allows you to enjoy the scenery from the sea, as well as swim and sunbathe at several island beaches. A day-trip to nearby stunning white sand beaches, such as Trindade or Sono Beach, is another bathing suit worthy option.

If you’re interested in adding Paraty to your Brazil tour itinerary, contact SA Luxury Expeditions.

Modern-day Peru is a blend of three cultural eras: ancient Peru, colonial Peru, and contemporary Peru.  Each plays an important role in the country’s national identity, shaping how Peruvians perceive themselves as well as how they present their country to the world. Though Lima, home to more than a quarter of Peru’s population, contains aspects of all three eras, its central plaza and surrounding area is one of the best places to explore the colonial piece of Peru’s past and present.

Founded in 1535 by conquistador Francisco Pizarro, Lima is both the colonial and current capital of Peru. At the time of its founding, the riches of the Inca Empire were inland at Cuzco, but the Spaniards needed easy access to the sea, and correspondingly to Europe. The area’s flat terrain also deterred indigenous attacks and uprisings, as the locals on foot where no match for unencumbered Spaniards astride horses. These reasons, among others, made Lima a practical place for the empire’s new capital.

Despite the death of Pizarro in 1541—actually a murder by rival Spanish fractions—Lima thrived, becoming the most important city in South America until the mid-1700s. In 1746 a massive earthquake shook the city, sending many of its original buildings to the ground. Most of the historic structures standing today were built after the quake.

A colonial tour of Lima starts with a visit to the main plaza, surrounded by historic buildings such as the main Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, Town Hall, and the President’s residence at Palacio de Gobierno.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the plaza gives travelers a taste of what early Lima looked like. It was here Pizarro paced while plotting battles against the Incas and also where the people of Peru proclaimed independence in 1821. And although the locals now drive taxis, chat on cell phones, and enjoy the comforts of the contemporary world, Lima’s European colonial descent is visible in the lighter skin of many of city’s inhabitants, especially when compared to other Peruvian regions, such as the Sacred Valley. Today, 15% of Peru’s population is white, 45% Amerindian, and 37% mestizo (a mix of the two).

For a more intimate experience with colonial Lima, head indoors. There are several mansions that were once private homes of the elite. Many now house government offices or museums, but still retain classic features such as ornate wooden balconies and  spacious courtyards, as well as antique artwork and furniture. The most impressive is Casa Aliaga, one of the first houses built in Lima. Even more remarkable is that the building is still owned by its original inhabitants, the Aliaga family, which arrived with Pizarro back in the 1500s.

Catholicism played a large role in the conquest and founding of Peru, and remains a strong force today. More than 80% of the population identifies with the Roman Catholic religion. La Catedral on the eastern side of the main plaza was first built in 1535 but has undergone many reconstructions and additions over the years. A massive interior space adorned with a gold leaf alter and delicately carved choir stalls greets visitors. The building is also the final resting place of Pizarro, whose remains are held within the chapel.

If you’re interested in exploring Lima’s colonial culture, contact SA Luxury Expeditions to help you arrange a customized Peru tour.

Glaciers cover 10% of the world’s terrain. Most are isolated in Antarctica and Greenland, rarely seen by anyone other than scientists and satellites. But in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park travelers are treated with rare accessibility to one of these icy wonders.

Of South America’s 25,000 square miles glazed with glaciers, 97 of them are contained within the Perito Moreno Glacier, a massive blue block of ice that visitors can actually trek across.

The birth of a glacier is slow. They form over hundreds of years in places where regular snowfall collects and compacts, eventually turning to ice. In an interesting aging twist, instead of going white with age, glaciers instead turn a brilliant blue as they increase in years and density.

The Moreno Glacier is a bone-chilling blue.

And it’s active. Of nearly 50 glaciers in Los Glaciares National Park, Perito Moreno is one of only three that is still growing, sometimes creeping across and completely blocking a channel of Lago Argentino, Argentina’s largest lake. And even if you can’t see the glacier actually growing, you can definitely hear it. From across the channel where a network of lookout walkways lines the shore, the icy growing pains are distinctly audible. Haunting moans. Painful creaks. The unsettling trickle of tiny pieces tumbling down the 200-foot ice wall, usually followed by a spectacular splash as a significant section gives way and plunges into the fridge waters below.

Want to get closer? Visitors can take a boat ride through the channel to admire the face of the glacier from a more intimate angle. Dodging icebergs and icy debris, arctic ships sail the frosty seas toward the glacier face, and though they keep a respectful (and safe) distance, ice calving is still a startling experience.

If the need to reach out and touch is irresistible, embrace your inner explorer and strap on a pair of crampons for a glacier trek. A typical mini-trek includes a boat ride, some glaciology 101, and an hour and a half of icy exploration across the glacier’s other-worldly surface.

If you’re interested in taking a Patagonia tour or learning more about Patagonia travel options, contact SA Luxury Expeditions for more information.

Nearly 9,000 species live in, on, and around the Galapagos Islands, an archipelago 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador famous for its unique wildlife. This week the islands welcome one more critter to the Galapagos club. Say hello to Bythaelurus giddingsi, the world’s newest known species of shark.

The foot-long shark prefers deep depths and sports a chocolate-colored skin with a scattering of light spots. The discovering scientists believe the spot distribution and pattern are unique to each individual, and have also kindly suggested “Galapagos Catshark” as the species common name.

Catsharks are the most common type of shark swimming in tropical waters. They rarely exceed two feet in length and are named after their slanted cat-like eyes. The Galapagos Catshark grows to be about 1.3 feet long and joins a lengthy list of endemic Galapagos species.

Rio de Janeiro is a temptress of a town. Forested mountains divide art deco buildings and white apartment blocks into surprisingly serene and navigable neighborhoods, while gleaming beaches punctuated by red umbrellas line the eastern edge. Throughout the city, the famous Christ Redeemer gazes down upon his domain of streets, sand, and soccer fields, his outstretched arms embracing them all.

Complementing the utopian landscape, the lust for life Cariocas (Rio locals) exude along with gregarious and welcoming personalities is unparalleled. Altogether, the combination of spectacular scenery, vibrant culture, and a remarkably modern and efficient public transportation system makes Rio de Janeiro one of the most exciting, authentic, yet tourist-friendly cities in the world.

It only took a day for me to fall in love with Rio. I arrived to the city after an over-night bus ride, expecting to be groggy and temperamental when faced with a lack of sleep and the challenges of traversing a massive metropolis. Instead, I was charmed. Charmed by the helpfulness of bus drivers, pedestrians, and old men drinking from liter-sized glass bottles (despite the early morning hour). Charmed by the pastel art deco houses with elaborate façades and shaded sidewalks. And especially charmed by the sun’s mid-morning sparkle on the waves lapping against the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema.

Revitalized by Rio and blessed with wonderful weather, I set off to conquer the city’s two most famous landmarks: Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain.

Christ Redeemer (locally called Cristo Redentor) stands upon Corcovado Mountain, which abruptly rises 2,330 feet into the air and is visible from across the city. Accessible by historic train or private transportation, the trip to the top took about 20 minutes. A cement series of stairs and circular platforms led to the base of the statue — the second largest statue of Jesus in the world at 125 feet tall. With arms outstretched and face placid, Christ the Redeemer recently received the honor of being named one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.  After snapping a photo of myself in the classic pose (arms outstretched and face placid) and pondering the cityscape, I was on my way to Sugarloaf.

Saddling the coast and city, Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar in Portoguese) is only about half the height of Corcovado, but offers equally impressive views. It is reached by an aerial tramway consisting of glass portals attached to several thick cables; the trip is a combination of thrill and beauty. As my futuristic pod quickly yet smoothly ascended, a panoramic view of Rio de Janeiro rapidly rolled out before my eyes and I scrambled to capture the moment on film.

The first stop is upon Urca Hill, a forested area frequented by curious Capuchin monkeys. A second short ride took me to the top of Sugarloaf, where views are the best. By the time I was at the summit, a long day of traveling and sightseeing was coming to a close. The sun was beginning to set behind the mountains, creating a silhouette of Christ the Redeemer against a sherbet swirled sky of oranges, pinks, and yellows. A cool breeze blew off the Atlantic Ocean and a hush fell over the hill as everyone watched the city slow disappear into the shadows.

But because this is Rio, nighttime was simply a transition rather than an end. Music began to drift up from the beaches and caipirinhas continued to flow. And my love affair with Rio continued into the night.

If you’re interesting in visiting Rio de Janeiro during a Brazil tour, contact SA Luxury Expeditions for more information.

I’m not sure what it is about famous waterfalls and international borders, but they seem to be attracted to each other. Last year I spent my January holidays shivering but struck by Niagara Falls, which flows and freezes along the US-Canadian border. This year I migrated south to the steamy jungles of southern Brazil and eastern Argentina, where instead of January icicles and snow piles I encountered the Garden of Eden-esque landscape that encompasses Iguazu Falls, recently named one of the “New 7 Wonders of the Nature.”

With white water rushing like liquid diamonds over emerald cliffs, ringed by rainbows shimmering in the spray, it was impossible not to be impressed.

The difference between the two famous falls is vast. As a Midwesterner who grew up with Niagara Falls only a few hours away, I thought I was prepared for Iguazu—but instead I was stunned by its natural grandeur. Surrounded only by deep jungle and a few unimposing walkways, here the organic landscape dominates and visitors seem as insignificant as ants, easily washed away.

You can visit Iguazu from Argentina, Brazil, or both. To experience both the intensity and immensity of Iguazu’s complex of 275 cascades, it’s preferable to schedule a day for each side. From Argentina you’ll crisscross the falls along a series of trails, weaving from one waterfall to the next. From Brazil you’re treated to a panoramic view of the entire site, which stretches nearly 2 miles across

Approaching Devil's Throat.

A favorite fall for many is Devil’s Throat, a horseshoe cascade that gushes rapidly over a 270-foot drop.  Accessed from Argentina but viewable from Brazil, this is one of the best places to appreciate Iguazu’s liquid power.

Devil's Throat Cascade.

Crossing a boardwalk that spans the surprisingly wide and tranquil Iguazu River toward Devil’s Throat is an experience of anticipation. When I began, I found it hard to believe that the sparkling shallow water was going anywhere, let alone fast, as it looked placid and perfect for a dip. But as I progressed, the river deepened and a plume of mist appeared in the distance. Soon a rumble reached my ears and what looked like a massive whirlpool of downward disappearing water swirled before my eyes

By the time I arrived at the overlook I was dripping both from eagerness and the fall’s spray, which mists the area with a cooling but photographically-frustrating vapor. The rumble now a roar, I gazed down into the abyss of the falls.

According to local Guarani legend, Iguazu Falls was created when a jealous god collapsed the riverbed to prevent the object of his infatuation from escaping downriver with an Indian warrior, the girl’s true love. As I leaned over the slick railing, squinting through the spray at the crash of colliding torrents far below, it seemed to me that though the punishment was a bit harsh, it certainly created a spectacular sight.

Want to feel the rush for yourself? Consider our 6-day Iguazu & Rio tour, or view our full selection of Iguazu tours. 

In addition to the pink river dolphins in the Amazon and the massive condors in the Andes, Peru has another treat for wildlife lovers. Penguins in Paracas.

Paracas is a tiny seaside town several hours south of Lima. This sliver of sand along the Pacific Ocean attracts travelers looking for ocean-view luxury and a chance to see Peru’s main bird sanctuary. Home to 160 species of marine birds, the Islas Ballestas are a series of rocky isles located just offshore and are the highlight of a visit to Peru’s southern coast.

The best time to visit the islands is in the morning when the seas are relatively calm and the sun not too strong. As I boarded an excursion boat in a bright orange life vest, a multi-lingual guide welcomed me aboard. Because the islands are located within a protected reserve, the only way to visit is via boat tours led by professional guides partnered with the national park.

During the ride to the islands, we pass a massive mountainside carving. Called the Candelabra, the ancient geoglyph is nearly 500 feet long and resembles the shapes you’d see flying over the Nazca Lines. And like the Nazca Lines, the origin and purpose of the Candelabra is unknown, adding a bit of mystery to my wildlife tour.

I know we’re close when the sky turns dark with circling birds. Massive flocks fly between the islands and the mainland and their numbers are both impressive and slightly overwhelming. As we near our destination, I see the islands are really a collection of red rocky arches, pillars, and piles. Nature’s own playground.

Although we’re not allowed to disembark, nimble maneuvering brings us within feet of sunbathing sea lions, the islands’ main mammal.  The sea lions and marine birds fare well here thanks to Peru’s abundant fish population. The rich aquatic life is fueled by the Humboldt Current, which pulls cold and nutrient rich waters from the ocean floor toward the surface, creating a high feeding zone for fish that makes them easier to catch.

In addition to being well fed, the sea lions also enjoy the security of living in a protected area. So rather than hiding when our boat gets close, they instead splash and roll around. After each display they peer in our direction as if to gage our reaction to their performance.

Sharing the shore with the playful sea lions are hundreds of birds. My guide identifies cormorants, pelicans, and boobies. And finally, the penguins. Not as populous as some of the other local birds, the tuxedoed Humboldt penguins are cute wobbly creatures found only along the Pacific coastline of Peru and Chile. They’re considered a vulnerable species due to threats from human encroachment and climate change, both of which negatively impact their limited habitat. Luckily, Peru’s only marine reserve is well regulated, and I’m happy to visit without leaving any footprints behind.

If you’re interested in exploring coastal wildlife during a Peru tour, contact SA Luxury Expeditions.

According to legend, Inca ruler Mayta Capac passed through Peru’s southern canyon country in the year 1300. Enchanted by the lush valley surrounded by snow topped volcanic peaks, Mayta Capac announced “Ari, quepay.” Quechan for: “Yes, stay.” A little over 200 years later, the Spaniards re-founded the area as the city of Arequipa.

How Arequipa truly got its name is left to historic speculation, but the point behind the story is valid: Arequipa is worth the stay.

Today, the city of Arequipa is a charming collection of churches and colonial-era buildings. Built from pearly white volcanic stone called sillar, the city seems to blaze with an inner light, sparking under an ever-present southern sun. Even from behind your sunglasses it’s easy to see how “The White City” earned its nickname.

Though Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city, it has the welcoming allure of a small Andean town. A scattering of traditional restaurants called picanterias furthers this image. They also help to maintain Arequipa’s place in the race to be Peru’s culinary capital against big sister city Lima. Lima may be modern and ceviche fresh, but Arequipa has the spice of life. The city prides itself on its spicy, filling, and traditional dishes such as rocoto relleno (peppers stuffed with meat, spices, and an assortment of other goodies) and adobo de cerdo (slow-cooked pork). Taste these treats for mere pocket change at one of the many family-style picanterias.

Inside the Santa Catalina Monastery

Delights extend beyond the kitchen. Arequipa houses the Monastery of Santa Catalina, a convent founded in 1579 and still in operation today. This massive complex covers an entire block and contains all the necessities of a small city, allowing the nuns to operate in isolation from the outside world. Many parts are open to the public, and the Monastery maze of colored walls (bright blue, rustic red) and hidden rooms offers a fascinating step back in time.

Back in the city’s spacious plaza, one can see the three volcanoes surrounding the city. These mountains and their smaller neighbors attract thrill seekers from across the globe. From hiking up Misti (the city’s dominate volcano), to biking down Pichu Pichu, to trekking through some of the deepest canyons in the world, the natural attractions of Arequipa’s canyon region are endless. The most popular excursion from Arequipa is a trip to the Colca Canyon, which can be used as a connection point on the way to Lake Titicaca.

If you’re considering an inclusive Peru tour that includes Arequipa, contact SA Luxury Expeditions for more information.

Most historians believe Machu Picchu’s mountainside construction began in the 1400s under the watchful eye of Inca ruler Pachacutec. The prevailing theory is that Machu Picchu was a royal retreat, a place where the Inca elite could relax and enjoy their lavish surroundings.

For this reason, Machu Picchu was placed far from other Inca cities and sites. It was so well isolated that the Spaniards—who conquered the Inca Empire and its Cuzco capital in the 1530s—never knew Machu Picchu existed.

So where is Machu Picchu’s mysterious location?

The site is situated in south central Peru, a South American country with 5 bordering neighbors: Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia, and Chile. A typical Peru vacation begins in Lima, the location of the country’s main international airport. Lima is also the capital and largest city in Peru. From here you will likely fly to Cuzco, the city closest to Machu Picchu. Time in the air is about one hour. By bus the journey takes 24 hours.

From Cuzco, Machu Picchu is about 70 miles northwest by road, on the other side of the Sacred Valley. It sits within the Cordillera de Vilcabamba, a small Andean range that runs for 160 miles and reaches 20,575 feet above sea level at its highest point. Machu Picchu, however, only hits 7,710 feet above sea level, a lower altitude than the city of Cuzco.

Google Image Map Cuzco to Machu Picchu

Combining the old with the new, Cuzco is the cobblestoned cultural center of Peru. Once the capital of the Incan Empire and now one of the most prized places in all of South America, this highland hub should feature prominently in any Peru vacation itinerary.

Unfortunately, many visitors breeze by Cuzco on their way to Machu Picchu, missing many of the best ruins, museums, and cultural attractions the country has to offer. A few leisurely days here are recommended not only to gradually acclimatize (because if you’re coming from Lima you’ve gone from sea level to 10,800 feet) but also to soak in the Andean atmosphere. Ladies leading llamas, intricate indigenous artwork, and highland delicacies like baked cuy, pachamanca, and trucha meet you at every corner, tempting you to stay longer.

Visiting Cuzco is like stepping into a historical reenactment where the lines between modernity and antiquity blur. The pre-Columbian, colonial, and contemporary are distinguishable but inseparable.

Red rooftops as viewed from our Casa San Blas hotel.

Throughout the city of Cuzco authentic Incan walls line steep and narrow streets, crowded with visitors and Quecha-speaking locals. Colonial mansions converted into luxury boutique hotels hide behind massive stone walls, which conceal courtyards and comfortable accommodations. Red tiled rooftops sprawl across the puma-shaped city, a layout conceived by Pachacutec, the ninth Incan ruler who is credited for turning the Kingdom of Cuzco into the Inca Empire.

Large rocks at Saqsaywaman.

Tour the city’s surroundings to fully appreciate Cuzco’s Incan heritage. Saqsaywaman is a massive site containing some of the largest stonework ever discovered; walls are made with massive stone blocks, some weighing up to 300 tons. The site held military and religious importance to the Inca, and the area actually creates the “head” of the city’s puma shape.

Cuzco Cathedral

The colonial era is best reflected in and around the Plaza de Armas, especially by the massive Cathedral. Construction began in 1559 with stones stolen from Saqsaywaman, though the Catholic structure took over 100 years to complete. Today the inside is almost more art gallery than religious refuge with magnificent displays of art from the Cuzco School, including the city’s oldest existing painting (dating back to 1650).

An arresting mixture of the ancient and colonial is found at Koricancha. Once one of the Inca’s most important temples—complete with gold-covered walls—the site today is an intriguing blend of flawless Inca stonework and the simple structure of a Dominican church, which was built upon parts of the temple.

Taking the time to sip coca tea and savor the diversity of this unique city is my preferred way to wind down after a busy day in Cuzco. The drink is not only soothing and revitalizing; it is also a piece of the past. Dating back 4,000 years, coca tea held an important place in Incan religious ceremonies. The beverage today is more practical than spiritual, served in almost every hotel, but further highlights just one of the many ways this city manages to embrace the new while maintaining the old.

If you’re interesting in incorporating a few days in Cuzco into your Machu Picchu tour package, please contact SA Luxury Expeditions.