With its picture-perfect landscape, unique traditional communities, and claim-to-fame as the world’s highest navigable lake (over 12,000 feet above sea level), it’s no wonder Lake Titicaca is one of Peru’s most popular destinations. But with several islands, communities, and lodging options, understanding how a cultural Lake Titicaca tour experience works can be confusing for the uninitiated. Here we break down the basics so you know what to expect and how to plan for a visit to this highland region.

Puno is the lake’s main port town and primary launching point for Lake Titicaca excursions. The town is connected by scenic bus routes to Arequipa, the Colca Canyon, and Cuzco. If arriving by air, you’ll land in the city of Juliaca, about 30 miles outside Puno. Because Lake Titicaca is shared between Peru and Bolivia, it can also be accessed by the Bolivian town of Copacabana.

1. A full-day boat tour that will take you to visit all three islands;
2. A two-day tour, with an overnight homestay at either the Amantani Island or the Taquile Island; note that you will still visit all three islands;
3. A three-day tour, with an overnight homestay on both the Amantani Island and the Taquile Island; note that you will still visit Uros and that you can extend your homestay on any of the other two islands;
4. An overnight on the privately-owned island of Isla Suasi at an eco-resort; note you will still visit the Uros and briefly explore Taquile Island.

The three islands mentioned above are very distinctive with unique characteristics, which can be difficult to believe since they are within close proximity (a one to three hour boat ride apart) and reside in the same lake. Below we describe the highlights of each island.

Uros Islands

Uros is made up of over 40 floating, man-made islands all constructed from the local tortora reed that grows in the lake. These buoyant reeds form the base of the islands, and are also the main material used for boats, houses, furniture, handicrafts, and even food. The Uros people speak mainly Ayamara and many still inhabit the islands, however, the population has decreased significantly over the past century due to migration to the mainland.

A common opinion is that the Uros islands are fairly touristic; however, they are well-worth visiting to truly understand how this particular native civilization has survived on the lake for centuries.  After speaking with the locals, I understood that many of them truly appreciate the tourism, as it allows them to financially adjust to the modern world that is inevitably affecting them, and that they also enjoy sharing their customs and way of life with others. The Uros Islands are located just a couple miles offshore Puno.

Island Amantani

Island Amantani is a proper island that houses close to 3,800 people, distributed among nine communities. The local culture is dominated by the pre-Inca Aymara people; although residents primarily speak Quechua (Spanish is also commonly spoken on all the islands).

Most people who visit Amantani do so as part of a homestay, meaning they will spend the night in the home of a local family (in the photo above SA Luxury Expeditions’ Destination Expert Staci Steele poses with her homestay family). As the most isolated and least developed of the islands, Amantani is the best place to visit for an authentic Lake Titicaca overnight experience. Life on the island is very rudimentary and overnight visitors eat with a local family and stay in a designated guest room within or attached to the main family home, which typically does not have proper running water, plumbing, or electricity.

The locals on the island survive off of their own land which is ideal for growing quinoa, potatoes, oka (a sweet, carrot-like potato), green beans, and tomatoes. Although not very common and generally done on special occasions, the islanders will also eat meat (either fish or local livestock). They also are very handy with textiles, which they sell to those visiting the island to increase access to income (money isn’t typically used among locals on the island, although currency has become a necessity to interact with the outside world).

Highlights of an Amantani homestay:

• Quiet, cultural experience that is off the beaten tourist track;
• Hike to the island’s two highest hills to visit the ruins Pachatata (Father Earth) and Pachamama (Mother Earth). The hike to these ruins can be challenging due to altitude effects, but offer incredible views of both the Peruvian and Bolivian sides of the extensive Andean Mountain range;
• Opportunity to participate in a local dance and music celebration in the evening, including traditional dress.

Island Taquile

Island Taquile, next door to Amantani, is a slightly smaller island with only about 2,000 inhabitants, distributed among six communities. Taquile has received a larger amount of tourism for a longer period of time than Amantani, and the community has been much more successful in its entrepreneurial initiatives. For example, there are several basic restaurants on the island, and Taquile textiles and weavings are known around the world. Many locals have access to solar power and a teacher from the mainland comes to teach at the local school. The main economic activities on Taquile are tourism, agriculture, and textile work.

Like at Amantani, island leaders at Taquile use a rotation system so each household that hosts visitors has equal access to incoming tourism dollars. This adds a sense of community equality, but also means no one homestay experience is the same, since each visitor will have a different host family and home situation with slightly different amenities (for example, a few houses have showers, others do not).

The Quecha-speaking locals manage a delicate balance between embracing the Western world while holding strongly to cultural traditions. For example, on Taquile locals wear hand-made clothing designed and selected specifically to indicate social position and marital status: those married or promised to marry wear different patterns and colors to distinguish themselves from those who are single (single generally means brighter and bolder colors), and those who have governing powers on the island have different hats to distinguish them from those who don’t.

Highlights of an Amantani homestay:

• Interaction with local community and exposure to textile culture;
• Beautiful scenery, prefect for photography buffs;
• Freedom to explore the island and hike among terraces and ruins.

If you’d like to learn more about Lake Titicaca tours and homestays, please contact SA Luxury Expeditions.

A day’s hike from the Sacred Valley hamlet of Ollantaytambo, through lush agricultural valleys that quickly turn to steep shrub-covered slopes, sits the Choquechaca plane. This isolated clearing, surrounded by peaks scraping the sky at 20,000 feet, is the humble home of the Sincha family, several generations of indigenous locals who have survived in this rural part of Peru by living off the land just as their Incan ancestors did hundreds of years before.

A bumpy dirt road comes close to connecting to the valley to the outside world, but still requires a 3-hour hike from the road to the clearing. The photo above shows the rugged and remote reality of the Sincha’s home, a small valley surrounded by Andean mountains, a situation similar to hundreds of highland Peruvian communities.

SA Luxury Expedition’s co-founder, Nick Stanziano, stumbled upon this Andean outpost seven years ago when he lived on the outskirts of Ollantaytambo, working with a NGO focused on improving working conditions for Inca Trail porters. Repeated solo treks into and around Choquechaca led to his familiarity, and eventual friendship, with the Sincha family (Nick with the family pictured below, photo taken in 2005).

When Nick first started visiting, the family clan consisted of three brothers, their wives, and 14 children. The three brothers (Valentine, Adrian, and Mario) spoke Spanish as well as the indigenous language Quechua, which facilitated communication. After multiple visits to the valley and numerous shared meals, the family invited Nick to become the godfather of 3-year-old Elena. In a traditional ceremony called Chukcha Rutukey, a practice stemming back to Incan times, they gave Nick the honor of cutting Elena’s hair for the first time and bestowing her with a traditional headpiece, officially making him part of the family as Elana’s godfather.

Years later, Nick now lives in Lima, Peru, and keeps busy with a daughter of his own, as well as the growing success of SA Luxury Expeditions, which he co-founded with David Rottblatt. He recently made time to take a trip from Lima to Cuzco and back up into the Choquechaca Valley to visit his adopted Andean family.

The Sincha’s rural lifestyle contrasts drastically with Lima’s modern streets and contemporary setting. Although Peru is currently undergoing an economic boom, growing at a rate of nearly 6.5% since 2002, this improvement has largely bypassed the Sincha family and thousands like them.  Of Peru’s 30 million residents, 8 million identify themselves as Quechua. Of these 8 million indigenous and primarily Andean inhabitants, 73% live below the poverty line.

The Sincha family survives off the land by growing several crops (primarily potatoes and corn), raising cuy (a type of guinea pig kept and consumed in a manner comparable to chickens), and maintaining a small herd of llama and sheep. The women of the family also weave colorful traditional textiles to complement the family’s few pieces of Western clothing while the men work part of the year as Inca Trail porters.

When Nick returned to the valley in May 2012, he discovered much of the family had migrated. His goddaughter Elena now lives with her brother in the small Sacred Valley town of Maras; they moved there in order to attend a local school. Elena’s parents, Valentine and Teofela, moved into the neighboring Patacancha Valley, closer to the dirt road, which eliminates the extra 3-hour walk.

Of the 14 Sincha children raised in the isolated valley, only one, Simiona, remains. She helps her mother, Valentena, maintain the herds and house. Several family members live in nearby towns where they have access to schools and basic amenities, such as electricity, which are lacking in the valley, yet they return frequently to Choquechaca to help maintain the family’s chacras (a local term for cultivated fields).

The Sincha family’s migration and basic modernization (they’ve received approval from the Ollantaytambo government for three solar panels) tells the story of contemporary Peru, a precarious balance between maintaining local traditions (dating back thousands of years) while also embracing the improvements modern conveniences can provide.

But change is slow. Although some of the Sincha clan have made it all the way to Lima, Elena’s parents, Valentine and Teofela, still live in a house with no running water or electricity, despite being closer to town and transportation.

Over shared shells full of canazo (cane liquor) in Valentine and Teofela’s humble house, Valentine, recently returned from working on the Inca Trail, told Nick about the challenges and benefits of tourism in the region, including how tourism can offer a way for families like his to utilize traditional practices to  increase their meager household incomes.

Sustainable tourism in the Sacred Valley can offer locals a way to showcase the reality of rural Andean life while also offering an escape from substance farming, a lifestyle that inevitably forces families to disperse in search of better opportunities.

If you’re interested in exploring the Sacred Valley and its surrounding areas, contact SA Luxury Expeditions for a customized Andean experience.

Peru is famous for its intriguing ancient civilizations and the ruins they left behind; its diverse landscapes that encompass everything from the second-largest desert city on Earth to the world’s highest navigable lake; and its recent cuisine revitalization touting the tastes of ceviche and pisco across the globe. But there is one other thing to discover in Peru: Potatoes. All 4,000 varieties of them.

Peru celebrates this humble vegetable each year on May 30: National Potato Day. To understand why Peru dedicates a full day to the portly potato, you first have to understand the significance of biodiversity and role the potato has played in Peru’s past and present.

Prevalence of the Potato

It began in the 1960s, as clusters of beachside kiosks sprung up along the Peruvian coast in Lima next to the Chorrillos beach selling ceviche. Ceviche is a local dish consisting of fresh seafood marinated in lime and is Peru’s national dish. The kiosks were sponsored by the Inka Cola Company, Peru’s most popular soft drink with its emblematic bright yellow and blue colors that adorned the walls of each kiosk. As years passed, the kiosks began to coalesce as a gastronomic hub in the capital city, serving up fresh ceviche for beachgoers, fisherman and Limenos of all social classes who flocked to eat. Traditionally, fish here was always purchased in large baskets (called balayas locally) alongside the beach, but by the early 1980s, the humble collection of fisherman and vendors established a formal fish market and fisherman’s union that eventually took control of administration and development of the Chorrillos fish market and cevicherias.

The Inza family, headed by the late Mercedes Inza, began as one of these original proprietors, with his kiosk on the beach in the 1960s. Today the second generation of the Inza family includes sisters Doris and Rocio and Doris’s husband Jose, and they still serve up traditional ceviche at this spot.  Yet as the fisherman’s union began to administer the market in the early 1980s, they built new stalls complete with running water, a small kitchen, and electricity. It’s in these stalls, behind the fisherman’s clubhouse and amongst other competing cevicherias, that the Inza family is located.

On any given day, you can find Doris keeping busy in the kitchen as her sister Rocio attends to customers at the small yellow tables in front.  Jose keeps an eye on approaching customers to help with the limited parking amongst the bustling activity of beachgoers, vendors, and fisherman. And Doris and Jose’s two daughters go between helping with the work and playing along the beach, just as Doris and Rocio did in their youth with their father.

While the ceviche experience at the Chorrillos market will be markedly different than the uber-modern, cevicherias of Lima’s upper classes, the freshness and love the Inza family gives its dishes are unmatched. The humble ambiance is a unique experience to practices of earlier years and an authentic insight into Peru’s coastal culture.

Visiting Brazil is a rush. From the endless attractions of Rio de Janeiro, to the gushing jungle falls in Iguazu, and over 8,514,877 square kilometers to explore (Brazil is the world’s fifth largest country), it’s important to schedule some downtime during a Brazil vacation. And if you need to relax, Paraty is perfect.

Paraty is a seaside colonial hideaway halfway between the Brazilian giants of Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo. A tiny and charming cobblestoned historic center serves world-class fare among whitewashed colonial buildings, while just steps away crayon-colored boats float in the harbor. Beyond them an inviting scattering of tropical islands dot the ocean like emeralds on a shimmering sapphire sheet.

Over 300 regional beaches and 65 islands surround this UNESCO World Heritage Site, but the town itself is free from distractions. Lounging and leisurely strolling are the main in-town activities. I spent my time in Paraty perusing tempting boutiques like Sobral, a hand-made Brazilian jewelry line featuring bright colors that blend Bohemian and chic designs. I also peeked in Cachaçaria Cana Caiana, which resembles an old western county store with wooden walls containing thousands of bottles of local liquors.

Close to the bridge spanning the river and connecting colonial Paraty to the section surrounding Pontal Beach, the intimate Restaurante Porto has tickled the taste buds and won praise from both New York Times and Conde Nast travel writers (it once made the list of the world’s 100 best restaurants). Another tasty option is Sorveteria Italiana Miracolo, where I personally promise the pasta will not disappoint. Many of the restaurants open in the late afternoon, though if you wait for dusk you’ll enjoy a meal by candlelight or soft lighting, which creates cozy shadows that flicker between the modern-day and the colonial past.

When you’ve visited all the colonial churches and historic buildings you can handle and you’re properly rested, take a trip to one of the numerous natural attractions surrounding Paraty. An island-hopping boat tour of the bay and its islands allows you to enjoy the scenery from the sea, as well as swim and sunbathe at several island beaches. A day-trip to nearby stunning white sand beaches, such as Trindade or Sono Beach, is another bathing suit worthy option.

If you’re interested in adding Paraty to your Brazil tour itinerary, contact SA Luxury Expeditions.

Modern-day Peru is a blend of three cultural eras: ancient Peru, colonial Peru, and contemporary Peru.  Each plays an important role in the country’s national identity, shaping how Peruvians perceive themselves as well as how they present their country to the world. Though Lima, home to more than a quarter of Peru’s population, contains aspects of all three eras, its central plaza and surrounding area is one of the best places to explore the colonial piece of Peru’s past and present.

Founded in 1535 by conquistador Francisco Pizarro, Lima is both the colonial and current capital of Peru. At the time of its founding, the riches of the Inca Empire were inland at Cuzco, but the Spaniards needed easy access to the sea, and correspondingly to Europe. The area’s flat terrain also deterred indigenous attacks and uprisings, as the locals on foot where no match for unencumbered Spaniards astride horses. These reasons, among others, made Lima a practical place for the empire’s new capital.

Despite the death of Pizarro in 1541—actually a murder by rival Spanish fractions—Lima thrived, becoming the most important city in South America until the mid-1700s. In 1746 a massive earthquake shook the city, sending many of its original buildings to the ground. Most of the historic structures standing today were built after the quake.

A colonial tour of Lima starts with a visit to the main plaza, surrounded by historic buildings such as the main Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, Town Hall, and the President’s residence at Palacio de Gobierno.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the plaza gives travelers a taste of what early Lima looked like. It was here Pizarro paced while plotting battles against the Incas and also where the people of Peru proclaimed independence in 1821. And although the locals now drive taxis, chat on cell phones, and enjoy the comforts of the contemporary world, Lima’s European colonial descent is visible in the lighter skin of many of city’s inhabitants, especially when compared to other Peruvian regions, such as the Sacred Valley. Today, 15% of Peru’s population is white, 45% Amerindian, and 37% mestizo (a mix of the two).

For a more intimate experience with colonial Lima, head indoors. There are several mansions that were once private homes of the elite. Many now house government offices or museums, but still retain classic features such as ornate wooden balconies and  spacious courtyards, as well as antique artwork and furniture. The most impressive is Casa Aliaga, one of the first houses built in Lima. Even more remarkable is that the building is still owned by its original inhabitants, the Aliaga family, which arrived with Pizarro back in the 1500s.

Catholicism played a large role in the conquest and founding of Peru, and remains a strong force today. More than 80% of the population identifies with the Roman Catholic religion. La Catedral on the eastern side of the main plaza was first built in 1535 but has undergone many reconstructions and additions over the years. A massive interior space adorned with a gold leaf alter and delicately carved choir stalls greets visitors. The building is also the final resting place of Pizarro, whose remains are held within the chapel.

If you’re interested in exploring Lima’s colonial culture, contact SA Luxury Expeditions to help you arrange a customized Peru tour.

Glaciers cover 10% of the world’s terrain. Most are isolated in Antarctica and Greenland, rarely seen by anyone other than scientists and satellites. But in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park travelers are treated with rare accessibility to one of these icy wonders.

Of South America’s 25,000 square miles glazed with glaciers, 97 of them are contained within the Perito Moreno Glacier, a massive blue block of ice that visitors can actually trek across.

The birth of a glacier is slow. They form over hundreds of years in places where regular snowfall collects and compacts, eventually turning to ice. In an interesting aging twist, instead of going white with age, glaciers instead turn a brilliant blue as they increase in years and density.

The Moreno Glacier is a bone-chilling blue.

And it’s active. Of nearly 50 glaciers in Los Glaciares National Park, Perito Moreno is one of only three that is still growing, sometimes creeping across and completely blocking a channel of Lago Argentino, Argentina’s largest lake. And even if you can’t see the glacier actually growing, you can definitely hear it. From across the channel where a network of lookout walkways lines the shore, the icy growing pains are distinctly audible. Haunting moans. Painful creaks. The unsettling trickle of tiny pieces tumbling down the 200-foot ice wall, usually followed by a spectacular splash as a significant section gives way and plunges into the fridge waters below.

Want to get closer? Visitors can take a boat ride through the channel to admire the face of the glacier from a more intimate angle. Dodging icebergs and icy debris, arctic ships sail the frosty seas toward the glacier face, and though they keep a respectful (and safe) distance, ice calving is still a startling experience.

If the need to reach out and touch is irresistible, embrace your inner explorer and strap on a pair of crampons for a glacier trek. A typical mini-trek includes a boat ride, some glaciology 101, and an hour and a half of icy exploration across the glacier’s other-worldly surface.

If you’re interested in taking a Patagonia tour or learning more about Patagonia travel options, contact SA Luxury Expeditions for more information.

Nearly 9,000 species live in, on, and around the Galapagos Islands, an archipelago 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador famous for its unique wildlife. This week the islands welcome one more critter to the Galapagos club. Say hello to Bythaelurus giddingsi, the world’s newest known species of shark.

The foot-long shark prefers deep depths and sports a chocolate-colored skin with a scattering of light spots. The discovering scientists believe the spot distribution and pattern are unique to each individual, and have also kindly suggested “Galapagos Catshark” as the species common name.

Catsharks are the most common type of shark swimming in tropical waters. They rarely exceed two feet in length and are named after their slanted cat-like eyes. The Galapagos Catshark grows to be about 1.3 feet long and joins a lengthy list of endemic Galapagos species.

Rio de Janeiro is a temptress of a town. Forested mountains divide art deco buildings and white apartment blocks into surprisingly serene and navigable neighborhoods, while gleaming beaches punctuated by red umbrellas line the eastern edge. Throughout the city, the famous Christ Redeemer gazes down upon his domain of streets, sand, and soccer fields, his outstretched arms embracing them all.

Complementing the utopian landscape, the lust for life Cariocas (Rio locals) exude along with gregarious and welcoming personalities is unparalleled. Altogether, the combination of spectacular scenery, vibrant culture, and a remarkably modern and efficient public transportation system makes Rio de Janeiro one of the most exciting, authentic, yet tourist-friendly cities in the world.

It only took a day for me to fall in love with Rio. I arrived to the city after an over-night bus ride, expecting to be groggy and temperamental when faced with a lack of sleep and the challenges of traversing a massive metropolis. Instead, I was charmed. Charmed by the helpfulness of bus drivers, pedestrians, and old men drinking from liter-sized glass bottles (despite the early morning hour). Charmed by the pastel art deco houses with elaborate façades and shaded sidewalks. And especially charmed by the sun’s mid-morning sparkle on the waves lapping against the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema.

Revitalized by Rio and blessed with wonderful weather, I set off to conquer the city’s two most famous landmarks: Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain.

Christ Redeemer (locally called Cristo Redentor) stands upon Corcovado Mountain, which abruptly rises 2,330 feet into the air and is visible from across the city. Accessible by historic train or private transportation, the trip to the top took about 20 minutes. A cement series of stairs and circular platforms led to the base of the statue — the second largest statue of Jesus in the world at 125 feet tall. With arms outstretched and face placid, Christ the Redeemer recently received the honor of being named one of the New 7 Wonders of the World.  After snapping a photo of myself in the classic pose (arms outstretched and face placid) and pondering the cityscape, I was on my way to Sugarloaf.

Saddling the coast and city, Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar in Portoguese) is only about half the height of Corcovado, but offers equally impressive views. It is reached by an aerial tramway consisting of glass portals attached to several thick cables; the trip is a combination of thrill and beauty. As my futuristic pod quickly yet smoothly ascended, a panoramic view of Rio de Janeiro rapidly rolled out before my eyes and I scrambled to capture the moment on film.

The first stop is upon Urca Hill, a forested area frequented by curious Capuchin monkeys. A second short ride took me to the top of Sugarloaf, where views are the best. By the time I was at the summit, a long day of traveling and sightseeing was coming to a close. The sun was beginning to set behind the mountains, creating a silhouette of Christ the Redeemer against a sherbet swirled sky of oranges, pinks, and yellows. A cool breeze blew off the Atlantic Ocean and a hush fell over the hill as everyone watched the city slow disappear into the shadows.

But because this is Rio, nighttime was simply a transition rather than an end. Music began to drift up from the beaches and caipirinhas continued to flow. And my love affair with Rio continued into the night.

If you’re interesting in visiting Rio de Janeiro during a Brazil tour, contact SA Luxury Expeditions for more information.

I’m not sure what it is about famous waterfalls and international borders, but they seem to be attracted to each other. Last year I spent my January holidays shivering but struck by Niagara Falls, which flows and freezes along the US-Canadian border. This year I migrated south to the steamy jungles of southern Brazil and eastern Argentina, where instead of January icicles and snow piles I encountered the Garden of Eden-esque landscape that encompasses Iguazu Falls, recently named one of the “New 7 Wonders of the Nature.”

With white water rushing like liquid diamonds over emerald cliffs, ringed by rainbows shimmering in the spray, it was impossible not to be impressed.

The difference between the two famous falls is vast. As a Midwesterner who grew up with Niagara Falls only a few hours away, I thought I was prepared for Iguazu—but instead I was stunned by its natural grandeur. Surrounded only by deep jungle and a few unimposing walkways, here the organic landscape dominates and visitors seem as insignificant as ants, easily washed away.

You can visit Iguazu from Argentina, Brazil, or both. To experience both the intensity and immensity of Iguazu’s complex of 275 cascades, it’s preferable to schedule a day for each side. From Argentina you’ll crisscross the falls along a series of trails, weaving from one waterfall to the next. From Brazil you’re treated to a panoramic view of the entire site, which stretches nearly 2 miles across

Approaching Devil's Throat.

A favorite fall for many is Devil’s Throat, a horseshoe cascade that gushes rapidly over a 270-foot drop.  Accessed from Argentina but viewable from Brazil, this is one of the best places to appreciate Iguazu’s liquid power.

Devil's Throat Cascade.

Crossing a boardwalk that spans the surprisingly wide and tranquil Iguazu River toward Devil’s Throat is an experience of anticipation. When I began, I found it hard to believe that the sparkling shallow water was going anywhere, let alone fast, as it looked placid and perfect for a dip. But as I progressed, the river deepened and a plume of mist appeared in the distance. Soon a rumble reached my ears and what looked like a massive whirlpool of downward disappearing water swirled before my eyes

By the time I arrived at the overlook I was dripping both from eagerness and the fall’s spray, which mists the area with a cooling but photographically-frustrating vapor. The rumble now a roar, I gazed down into the abyss of the falls.

According to local Guarani legend, Iguazu Falls was created when a jealous god collapsed the riverbed to prevent the object of his infatuation from escaping downriver with an Indian warrior, the girl’s true love. As I leaned over the slick railing, squinting through the spray at the crash of colliding torrents far below, it seemed to me that though the punishment was a bit harsh, it certainly created a spectacular sight.

Want to feel the rush for yourself? Consider our 6-day Iguazu & Rio tour, or view our full selection of Iguazu tours.